Скачать с ютуб Range Rover P38 # 096 - FIP Installation and Timing в хорошем качестве

Range Rover P38 # 096 - FIP Installation and Timing

Finally it's out, the video about how reinstall a reconditioned or new fuel injection pump (FIP). I'll also show you how to time the pump up so that it's has the correct alignment / angle. It's taken a while to complete the video because my timing gauge was in the crate I shipped over from the US in March. The crate took a bit longer than I'd hope which delayed everything. In my previous videos I took out the leaking injection pump, resealed it and cleaned it up. Video # 83 - FIP top gasket:    • Range Rover P38 # 083 - FIP Top Gasket   VIdeo # 88 - Removing the FIP:    • Range Rover P38 # 088 - Fuel Injectio...   Video # 89 - Resealing the FIP:    • Range Rover P38 # 089 - Fuel Injectio...   Video # 90 - Going for a "new" factory reconditioned pump:    • Range Rover P38 # 090 - The Road Forw...   I'm also referring to video # 72 to jump relay 12 for the in-tank fuel pump:    • Range Rover P38 # 078 - Fuel Tank Pum...   We'll test the resealed pump for leaks, then install it back onto the engine. Before we time it up we'll crank the engine to make sure the pump is bled and providing fuel to the rear outlet valves on the pump. This is where I ran into issues. I could not get any fuel out of the pump. I tried numerous things. - I discovered the rear output valves were mounted incorrectly, so I had to remove the pump to fix those. - Hot-wired the stop solenoid to verify it's working and attempt to bypass any issues with it. - Rebuilt the pump once more after removing it yet again from the engine. To make sure absolutely everything was fine. In this second rebuild I completely stripped it down except from removing the axle shaft seal since I didn't have it. It wasn't leaking anyways. - Bled and verified that the pump does get fuel and isn't leaking anywhere. Either putting the output valves backwards in managed to damage them or the pump, or I've done something completely wrong somewhere. I could not get any fuel out of the pump. So I ordered a "new" reconditioned pump from Germany. NOTE! Always test-turn the pump on the bench while it's out of the car to make sure it's not seizing up. It should turn with little force, only requiring a little bit more force to pass the 6 compression cycles per revolution. Use the LRT-12-118 shaft tool to turn the axle of the FIP. Installing the new pump it only took a short while of cranking after bleeding the system to get fuel out the high pressure lines and to the injectors. As a bonus we'll have a look at what happens if your needle lift sensor (on injector # 4) fails or is disconnected. It turns out the engine will run, the check engine light will come on, and you'll get code / error 142 (needle lift sensor). You'll need a few tools: LRT-12-108 Crank / flywheel locking pin LRT-12-117 Injector pipe socket LRT-12-118 FIP axle turning tool LRT-12-119 FIP sprocket holding tool 6 and 7 mm sockets to loosen / fasten the coolant hoses (yours might use different hose clamps). 8 mm socket / spanner to loosen / fasten the windshield washer reservoir and power steering reservoir. 12 and 13mm sockets / spanners to loosen / fasten the FIP mounting nuts and manifold intake. 17 mm socket / spanner to loosen / fasten the fuel feed and return lines. 7/8" or 22 mm socket to turn the crankshaft. 5 mm allen key for the engine top cover. A feeler gauge tool with extension to time up the pump. I used one similar to this one (Nielsen CT4077): https://www.amazon.co.uk/DIESEL-INJEC... Though I recommend at least 10cm (4") longer extension to make it easier to clear the oil filter canister. And a few parts: STC2279 Large o-ring between FIP and timing case on engine. STC2015 O-ring for FIP fulcrum cap. Installation of the pump is pretty much reverse of removal in vIdeo # 88 - Removing the FIP:    • Range Rover P38 # 088 - Fuel Injectio...   I found it easiest to mount the pump back onto the engine with the high pressure lines already onto the pump. The engine firing order is: 1-5-3-6-2-4. The back of the FIP is marked A through F. A being the first output to fire fuel and connected to injector # 1. Injector # 1 is towards the front of the vehicle. Connect B to injector 5, C to injector 3, D to injector 6, E to injector 2 and F to injector 4 to achieve the correct firing order. Some torque values of use: FIP mounting nuts: 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft) FIP axle nut: 50 Nm (37 lbf.ft) Injector pipes at pump and injectors: 22 Nm (16 lbf.ft) FIP fuel feed line: 14 Nm (10 lbf.ft) FIP return fuel line: 25 Nm (18 lbf.ft) You can reach me at [email protected] if you want to get in touch with me. Follow me on Twitter:   / 0ddj4rl3   or Instagram:   / 0ddj4rl3   Please consider subscribing. And as always please comment below and I'll respond as best as I can. Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this video interesting.