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Di Fara Pizza ...Making The Square Slices!

If you're feeling intrepid, travel out to DiFara Pizza in Brooklyn, amid the jumble of laundromats and kosher bakeries along Avenue J. That's where you'll find Domenico De Marco, dressed in comfortable shoes and his flour-dusted apron, making thin Neapolitan pies the same way he's been doing it for more than four decades. This means a wafer-crisp crust that's soft around the edges and not too wet in the middle, bits of fresh basil (grown in the window), and a lacing of extra-virgin olive oil through the sweet tomato sauce. After the pie comes out of the conspicuously non-wood-burning oven, it gets a ceremonial dusting of real Parmesan, administered in slow, deliberate, old-world style by the master himself.