Скачать с ютуб How to Regrind and Sharpen any axe for Greenwood Carving - Asymmetrical Grind - Tormek T8 / Axe Jig в хорошем качестве

How to Regrind and Sharpen any axe for Greenwood Carving - Asymmetrical Grind - Tormek T8 / Axe Jig

Here's how I prepare any axe for spooncarving. I do an assymetrical grind with the inside bevel flat-over-hollow, and the outside bevel convexed. Most axes already have a convex bevel so most of the time you only need to grind one side to do this modification. The advantage here is that you can get an edge that bites better and will do planing cuts well, without the apex being fragile. The convex outer bevel adds a lot of strength via extra material behind the edge. I grind mine to around 25 degrees, although lower is better if you only carve soft woods like birch. I often carve harder Australian woods, which can damage an edge even when green, so I err on the side of a more robust geometry. After grinding the hollow I use a small handheld stone to establish tiny polished rails. It's super easy to touch up the sharpness, just strop often and sharpen only the hollow ground side when needed. Don't sharpen the convex side, it will only get better and more polished over time from stropping. The Tormek axe jig isn't perfect, but with a bit of practice you can get good results on most axes. In this video I show an old Kent Pattern GEM hatchet, and my Gransfors Bruk Large Carving Axe. If your stone is cutting slowly, don't forget you can use the truing tool to cut back to a fresh coarse surface. Kent pattern hatchets work great for greenwoodworking, and are a dime a dozen compared to an expensive Swedish style carving axe. #CarvingAxe #Tormek #Sharpening