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Processing aspen from wood to firewood and mulch.

Processing aspen from wood to firewood and mulch. Every year I collect firewood, since it takes about 20 cubic meters of firewood to heat houses. I grind the branches into mulch. I need a lot of mulch, so I take advantage of the offers from my neighbors, who are happy to fuse branches for me after selling the forest. In this case, I felled an aspen tree with a trunk diameter of 55 cm. The full cycle of its processing to firewood in the woodshed, a pile of mulch and cleaning the area took approximately 10 hours. There are practically no random technical and organizational solutions in this work. Briefly (as much as possible) about some. 1) Falling down an upright tree in a given direction is a routine task, provided there is no wind. 2) If the wedge is deep, it is better to cut it in two stages. There is less chance that the saw bar will jam. 3) I use a fairly powerful Husqvarna 550 XP G saw (which is fully justified during long-term work) with a short bar (15’ or 38 cm). This is absolutely enough for most jobs, the chain and bar are cheaper than long ones and, what is important in my situation, a long bar is more likely to catch on a stone. After this, the chain has to be sharpened. Yes. I have a long bar and chains. 😊 4) If some parts of the lying trunk are “hanging”, it is convenient to cut the logs right away. If not, it is safer and faster to cut each one in two or three steps. In this case, I usually make several cuts about 2/3 of the diameter of the trunk and adjust one full cut to the surface topography. So, to cut a piece of the trunk of such a size that it can be rolled without overstrain. In this case, it is better to make a final cut from below, making sure that the tire is not pinched. 5) It is more convenient to roll heavy pieces of the trunk with a crowbar. At the same time, it is often convenient to have two crowbars (which is also very important when working with stones). Then, using the fulcrum and lifting the log with one crowbar, you can fix the achieved result with the other, move the first crowbar and build on your success. 6) I try not to walk with the load, using the trailer as much as possible. This saves a lot of time and efforts. 7) I cut thick branches with a diameter of more than 6-7 cm using an electric circular saw. It's cheaper. 8) You need to chop wood with two axes. I use the large one only for large (to break them in two) or knotty logs. If there are no branches, then I chop logs of final size from half of the log with a small ax, working with one hand and holding the log with the other so that most of it does not fly off the chump. There is no need to try to deliver strong blows so that the logs fly apart. Then you have to go after them and put them back. 9) The chump should be high. So much so that the height of the blow with an ax on a log is just below the waist. For my height of 190 cm, a chump height of approximately 60-65 cm is convenient, despite the fact that I split logs approximately 30-33 cm long. A low chump is not ergonomic and is dangerous for injury. 10) It is convenient not to put the logs in the woodpile, but to throw them into the metal grid for wood. I use a stationary structure with doors, but many Finns simply use cylinders (3 meters in diameter) of large mesh for dog enclosures, then covering the full mesh with an awning. With this approach, the firewood dries faster and installation time is saved. If you liked this video, please subscribe to my channel. 11) When grinding branches, I always use a helmet and protective eye and face shield. 12) I always work with gloves, since accidental splinters or cuts are a loss of time and productivity. #felling #defender #firewood #mulch #finland